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Making an opening template
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 Posted: Thu Apr 11th, 2013 11:21 am
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Don Burt
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I spent some time trying to make an exact template of a little irregular lancet opening. I didn't do very well. Now I'm tempted to attempt to do it again photographically, but that has its own hassles with printers and taping and guesswork. But maybe I just don't know the procedure for making a template. A pencil rubbing on a piece of kraft paper will be less accurate than I want. Maybe I just don't know the right general approach. Can someone suggest the approach for making an accurate paper template of an opening?  



 Posted: Thu Apr 11th, 2013 11:57 am
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artfem
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Don, paper templates only work if there is a piece of glass in the opening. If this is the case, take a very rough but oversize rubbing of the opening. Sketch a line that approximates the perimeter of the opening but is smaller. Make a series of cuts that are perpendicular to and just cross the sketch line from the edge of the paper with scissors. For gentle curves, 3/4" to 1" spacing may be sufficient. The tighter the curve, the tighter the cuts have to be. Cut a few holes in the center of the paper and use these to tape the template in place. Now go around the perimeter and carefully crease each tab where it intersects with the edge of the opening. This gives you the sight size. Add for the depth of the groove or rebate and you have the full size.

For empty openings, you need to use something more rigid. Cardboard can work but we use a plastic material called corex. If it is a rebate, rough cut until you have a piece that fits into the rebate. Trace the sight size and the add for the rebate. If it is a groove, cut a few pieces until you can fill the opening. Tape pieces together and mark with registration lines. Trace the sight size. Dismantle, remove from opening, reassemble on bench using registration lines, add for groove, etc. once you have it, this is a good time to configure meeting joints and indicate on template.

Last edited on Thu Apr 11th, 2013 11:59 am by artfem



 Posted: Thu Apr 11th, 2013 02:02 pm
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Don Burt
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There's glass in the opening. Your suggestion sounds perfect. Thank you very much.



 Posted: Fri Apr 12th, 2013 03:54 pm
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Mary Clerkin Higgins
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The way I was taught to take templates of tracery is to:
  1. Cut a shape roughly the same as the opening, but larger by about 1-2".
  2. Feather the edges of the paper all the way around using scissors. cutting in about 1" deep every 1/2" or so, perpendicular to the edge.
  3. Cut triangles into the body of the paper for openings you can use to tape the template to the existing glass.
  4. Using a pencil, mark carefully all around the edge.  The feathering allows you to get the exact shape.
That's it. Afterwards you can flatten out the edges and tape them (so they're no longer feathered). 
Best, Mary
Clerkinhigginsstainedglass.com




 Posted: Fri Apr 12th, 2013 06:19 pm
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Vic
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Pencil and paper....really in this day and age

Check this out

http://www.prodim.eu/en-us/Solutions/Door-Window-Solution.html


http://www.prodim-systems.com/en-gb/Industries/Construction/Monumental-Works.html

Last edited on Fri Apr 12th, 2013 06:26 pm by Vic



 Posted: Fri Apr 12th, 2013 10:13 pm
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CZL
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I always carried a ruler, tape, paper, cardboard, a box cutter knife, and a pair of scissors. Also masking tape. Tape the paper over the opening, trace the opening, pull down the paper. Transfer it the cardboard, cut the traced cardboard with the box cutter knife, then see if it fits the opening. By placing it in the opening. If it does you are golden, and you have a templet for a glazing drawing. If it doesn't fit the opening use the masking tape and the left over cardboard to make it the right size, by adding small pieces of cut cardboard to the templet, until it does fit. Sounds simple, that's if the wind isn't blowing or it is not raining and 70 or 80 feet up in the wall. But that is the business you are in. Also when I worked on the Cathedral they provided the patterns for the stone openings. Thing about those patterns was. They had smell about inch cuts all the way around the out side edge of the paper pattern. Those were the ones they used. They did not bother with the cardboard. That was my approach may be a little over kill but it worked for me. XZ



 Posted: Thu Apr 18th, 2013 06:48 pm
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Rona
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It may be obvious, but mark your template with which which way is up and which side is inside. I use a heavy duty paper which is dark on one side (for the outside) and white on the other.



 Posted: Thu Apr 18th, 2013 07:24 pm
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Mary Clerkin Higgins
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Rona, That's a good point to mark the inside and outside. I also often put a level mark on the template, and if there's a spring line, am sure to mark that. Best, Mary



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