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Copper Foil
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 Posted: Tue Aug 19th, 2008 08:37 pm
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Glass Flagg
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Hi Guild,

I've been struggling with some of my copper foil 3D pieces.   When the iron gets too hot, the adhesive will run out from under the foil.   That is very difficult adhesive to remove.   Anyone know of a product/method to easily remove that from 3D pieces.

Thanks,

Tim

http://www.glassflagg.com



 Posted: Tue Aug 19th, 2008 10:48 pm
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Rebecca
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You might try changing the brand of foil you use.  Or Goof Off might take it off.

Rebecca



 Posted: Tue Aug 19th, 2008 11:16 pm
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Krueger
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Tim, I have used a Weller 100 soldering iron for many years, have made 3-D pieces with copper foil, and have not had that problem.  If you are using a soldering iron with a thermostat, try setting it lower....but personally I would recommend a Weller 100, even with lead came.

Barbara in Michigan

 



 Posted: Wed Aug 20th, 2008 04:26 pm
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Glass Flagg
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Hi,

We do use the thermostats.   Well now we do.   Originally I was told to use the iron full blast with copper foil.   But since then I have realized that it is not a good idea.

I am in the process of talking to the Venture Tape people about the adhesive removal.   I was trying to get ideas from the Guild about removing the adhesive.

Thanks,

Tim

http://www.glassflagg.com



 Posted: Wed Aug 20th, 2008 11:19 pm
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Vic
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try lighter fluid



 Posted: Thu Aug 21st, 2008 03:46 pm
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Rebecca
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Glass Flagg wrote: Hi,

We do use the thermostats.   Well now we do.   Originally I was told to use the iron full blast with copper foil.   But since then I have realized that it is not a good idea.

I am in the process of talking to the Venture Tape people about the adhesive removal.   I was trying to get ideas from the Guild about removing the adhesive.

Thanks,

Tim

http://www.glassflagg.com

 

Tim, Venture is what I use, too, and I've never had the adhesive run; even on three-dimensional items.  I wonder what the difference is.  (I have had it run using Edco foil.)  Scrubbing with hot water takes awhile but doesn't smell as bad as lighter fluid.

Rebecca



 Posted: Thu Aug 21st, 2008 07:55 pm
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Tod
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Tim:

I clean foiled pieces with whiting and brushes, just like leaded ones.

The escaping adhesive can be trimmed and won't usually re-stick to the glass with the dusty stuff on it. Rags can be used, too, of course.

- Tod



 Posted: Thu Aug 21st, 2008 09:51 pm
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Krueger
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As an additional reply - there are times when after I have soldered and cleaned up with whiting, I let the project sit a day because many times the adhesive may "ooze" and I want the solder/foil to come to room temp.  I then take a paper towel and a wooden pick and go all over at the edges of each seam to further clean the piece up.  I change the area of the towel after 2 strokes, more or less.  When the area of the paper towel is no longer dirty, that place has been cleaned .... and I just keep moving....both sides!!  If the piece is not throughly clean, any patina will not look as nice.  So just before I apply patina (I only use copper, personal preferance) I quickly rub it down with whiting again and then put the piece under my lamp on the work table to warm it up....especially in the colder weather. And I take the container of patina and put it in a warm bath of water (old coffee can, etc.)   Of course, now the piece needs to be throughly cleaned again!!!

Barbara in Michigan

Last edited on Thu Aug 21st, 2008 09:59 pm by Krueger



 Posted: Mon Jan 19th, 2009 10:01 pm
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artfem
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Tim:  Not a cleaner, but you might try using a heat sink, a wet towel, on the under side of the piece you are soldering.  This will keep the temperature down to where it probably will not make the foil ooze.  It also works great to keep the solder from falling through the elevated joint.  We used to take an old towel, soak it then lightly wring it out. Keeps those hot solder blobs from dropping of the bench and into your shoes as well.



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